Why copper instead of iron? Experience with copper appliances

Bipolarity in nature

Wherever the climatic and geological conditions are right, the earth is green. The forest, the meadow, the field and the garden bed all depend on the upper layer of soil, however thin it may be, which is permeated by moisture and air. This is where plants can germinate, penetrate the soil with their roots and shade the soil, which is so important for them, with their leaf canopy. According to Viktor Schauberger, this is the “boundary skin” in which the substances of the earth (water, soil life, humus) and the substances of the sky (light, oxygen) mix and create life. We speak of decomposition and construction, of growth, maturity and withering, of becoming and passing away.

The art of farming and gardening lies in ensuring that all these processes take place in their natural balance, even if they are enhanced. We pay attention to the right temperature and water the plants when the soil is dry. When the light is strong, we provide light shade for sensitive plants.

We know that humid air is good for us on summer days and that a slightly cloudy sky is pleasant for our eyes. It is the same for plants, which are at their most vigorous just then.

The opposite example is the desert. No “border skin” can develop there, because the forces of light and dry air are too strong and their activity consumes the soil. The climax is combustion. Where, as we know, the hydrogen and carbon are consumed by heat and oxygen. Trees and forests, however, provide a wonderful balance here!

Protecting the earth

In (untouched) nature, we see how the earth protects itself. Viktor Schauberger describes so aptly how a young and still tender seed can emerge in the light shade of higher trees. The intensity of the light is broken up and dispersed by the moving branches and leaves so that it does not harm the tender plant, indeed it is very docile to them right now! He speaks of the positively charged “atmospheric fertilizing substances” (light and oxygen), which must first be slowed down and put into a state of inactivity (or passivity) in order to be optimally received by the negatively charged “geospheric fruiting substances” (carbon, water, soil life and plant). A wonderful picture of these opposites, whose fusion leads to crystallization, what we call life and growth. As farmers and gardeners, we always strive to protect the soil, this “border skin of earth”, which is a highly sensitive area with the life it contains, using the old means at our disposal. We grow green manure, we leave no area of soil uncultivated or uncovered, we mulch with organic materials. Or we use the “mulch hoe”, which ensures that the top 2 to 3 cm of soil remain loosened to prevent the evaporation of moisture from the subsoil. When the foliage of the cultivators covers the entire soil and the desired “microclimate” is created, then we have restored nature and its balance. And, as we can see, it is also the equipment with which we treat the soil surface in a targeted manner, but sometimes also damage it (e.g. by deep digging), that has an influence on the growth process. The way in which they are used, the shape of the tools and, in particular, the composition of the materials contribute to protecting and caring for the soil’s vital boundary layer.

The effect of metals in the soil

In nature, metals are usually found in balanced doses and in a chemical compound that is neutral for the soil. However, according to Viktor Schauberger’s observations, those areas where there is a lot of iron ore tend to be barren areas. In contrast, copper-rich landscapes are characterized by lush growth. He also shows that the conspicuous decline in yields in Bulgarian agriculture after “modernization” was due to the steel ploughs that were now used everywhere. In the scattered Turkish settlements, where there were still the old (customary) wooden plows, most of which were pulled by people, he recorded no decline in yields. The steel plows were also pulled by horses and sometimes also by steam power, so that more abrasion and, of course, heat was generated due to higher resistance. To prove his findings, Viktor Schauberger put iron fines in water; rust immediately forms and the water loses its natural tension. In the soil, especially as its specific gravity is increased, it will tend to sink and be almost inaccessible to plant roots!

Other negative effects on the water balance of the soil caused by fast-moving iron and steel plows are the build-up of heat, which causes water to evaporate, and electrolytic action, which decomposes the water into hydrogen and oxygen, both of which volatilize. The soil dries out. All this reduces the geospheric tension, growth is inhibited and yields decline. These findings were not well received by the government at the time, as business interests were paramount.

However, it is precisely the iron that has a negative effect on the soil when it passes through and through abrasion. The advantage of copper is its non-magnetic property, so that no electrical currents are generated when it passes through the soil. The water-decomposing electrolytic effect therefore does not occur.

It should be mentioned that practitioners who work with copper implements (plows, hoes) have found that copper implements offer much less resistance to the soil than iron implements. It is easier to work! Copper does not rust, so there is no oxidation with copper or precious metals. This preserves the water. Viktor Schauberger sees iron as a hydrogen robber and copper as a hydrogen producer! We can check this for ourselves by placing an iron object on our tongue; it is not pleasant.

The abrasion (wear) of copper results in a very fine distribution of copper, tin and possibly other traces of precious metals in the soil. It is therefore a trace element fertilization for the soil. If necessary, this can be supplemented with a precious metal mixture consisting of aluminum, chromium, gold, manganese, magnesium, nickel, silver, zinc and, if there is a shortage, also iron, which is riveted or soldered to the working surface of the equipment. However, this supplementation only makes sense if a floor is deficient. As with everything, it’s all about the right dose! When using iron equipment, the amount of iron traces released can be too much and, unlike copper, can be very destructive. If, on the other hand, we have healthy, biologically active soil, where minimal tillage is sufficient to achieve the best results on crumbly soil, then a little iron will probably be the right dosage and will certainly do no harm. Nevertheless, it is a good feeling to know that the device I am working with is beneficial for the soil and is a good alternative to the iron ridges.

The fertile soil

When land is cultivated in a natural way, soil life ensures a balanced balance of minerals and trace elements. The soil is constantly enriched with the addition of primary rock flour, seaweed and shell limestone, so that a balance can be created even on poor or depleted soils! In particular, a well-organized compost economy and other agricultural measures such as green manuring and mulching are still the fundamental prerequisites for lasting soil fertility. But if we think back to the inherently fertile Romanian soils, which always produced good harvests after traditional, i.e. biologically sound cultivation with only wooden tools, but then suddenly collapsed due to the use of iron tools, we realize how susceptible even an intact soil structure can be to disruption if even just one link is damaged.

An intact landscape also includes trees, hedges, shrubs and many herbs. Deep-rooted trees store precipitation and release valuable minerals and trace elements from the deeper layers of soil, which are stored in their branches and leaves. Many herbs are specialists in certain vital nutrients and microelements, which they use to enrich the soil. We will therefore incorporate as many tree branches and hedge cuttings as possible, as well as leaves and forest litter, into our compost heaps. We then get a very mineral-rich compost that gives the plants a lot of vitality and resistance! We also appreciate the pure wood ash as a soil nutrient. We must not neglect all this, it is the basis, even when using soil-friendly copper tools!

The devices and their application:

They are back, the copper tools; the traditional pointed hoe, the sow’s tooth, the rake, the spade, the trident and two variants of the small hoe!

The copper required for this is worked by hand in an Austrian blacksmith’s shop. It has to be hammered and solidified with many blows. Hammering and alloying with a little tin (8%) gives it its shape and strength. Handles made of lime wood, with a curved shape, help to make the tools handy and light. Yes, they are ideal for working in the garden!

We have been working with the hoes for two years. Their pointed shape makes them a multi-purpose tool. As the handle is anchored almost centrally in the blade, the hoeing work can also be done well with the sides, which is achieved by tilting it slightly to the left or right. Even grass and clover can be chopped well with this hoe, even better than with the straight-edged hoes we have favored so far. The latter can bounce off grass pollen if not enough force is applied. A pointed hoe, on the other hand, always gets the job done, even with less force, as it cuts right through!

As our soil, which is never worked with machines, always has a loose structure, we can completely dispense with deeper soil loosening. Even when cultivating, the soil is only worked to seed depth. So sow teeth, digging forks and spades are almost only used when cultivating and harvesting root vegetables. The hoe and rake are always good for cultivation. The sow’s tooth can be very helpful when planting and planting onions by pulling it deep enough through the groove beforehand. This makes it easier to get the plants and cuttings into the ground! The trident and the small hoes with their claws are used for cultivation work. The light and handy trident is used quickly to scrape up all areas of soil that are still bare and a little crusty after rain. The soil remains moist under an even if only thin, loose top layer of soil, as the soil moisture can no longer easily reach the sun-warmed soil surface! For scraping and planting work, small hoes for one hand are very useful! A digging fork is easy to use for harvesting roots as it goes smoothly through the soil. They may also be available in copper, but this is not so easy with such tools, as the long and relatively thin tines bend easily under heavy use. The iron digging fork will do the trick. There are root vegetables with strong and deep roots, such as parsnips or black salsify. These can only be dug up with a spade. But even then, the copper spade would be too much of a pity, especially if there are stones in the subsoil. Surely every gardener will know a job where the copper spade would be useful. I’m thinking of shoveling in and spreading compost or planting ornamental and fruit trees and shrubs.

Maintenance of the devices:

Copper appliances do not rust, so they do not need to be cleaned after a job, and if they do, this is always easy. Avoid prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. If we put an appliance away while we are in the garden because it is not needed, we look for a shady spot for this time. We will take great care not to use the more sensitive appliances where the soil is not yet cultivated like garden soil. These are, for example, soils that are heavily rooted by woody plants, soils with wild growth and soils that are still firm and stony. This is where iron cultivators, stakes and staples must first do their job. If a stony soil is loose enough, then copper tools can be used very carefully and without force. The copper used for the tools consists of a special alloy (tin) and has been mechanically strengthened (hammering, hammering). Both contribute greatly to the elasticity of copper and make it possible to compensate for deformations. In contrast to iron tools, copper is much easier to bend, denge and resharpen. From time to time, it is a good idea to re-sharpen the edges that have become blunt. This gives the hoe and spade a good edge and prevents loss of substance! If need be, the excessively sharp points created during sharpening can be ground down a little with a whetstone. The deneling process needs to be learned; too much of a good thing for thin, sensitive areas! So here, too, you need to take your time and moderate the amount of force you apply!

The lime wood handles are untreated. We have left them like this because I believe that it is better for our hands. We have the natural contact of wood and skin, where air and moisture (sweat) can be better balanced than with glazed handles. If we do, I would treat them with beeswax. It is kept warm by rubbing it in firmly with a cloth. Copper appliances will soon grow on you. We like to reach for them when it comes to gardening. Yes, we really enjoy them.

James Langerhorst 2002